Remember that feeling of pure comfort food that takes you back to simpler times? For over **30 years, La Capanna in Kingston has been serving up just that – a generous slice of Italian nostalgia that warms the soul.**
It's a rare gem in today's ever-changing culinary landscape. La Capanna has managed to stay remarkably consistent, a steadfast beacon of tradition. As 2026 approaches, it felt like the perfect moment to revisit this beloved Canberra institution and see if it still holds that magical charm.
Stepping through its charming, sage-green doorway, I initially felt a quiet anticipation. But as the gentle strains of Simon & Garfunkel filled the air and a family of five, followed by a stylish young couple, were warmly welcomed, a comforting sense of familiarity washed over me. It was as if the world outside faded away, and we were transported to a place where time slows down.
Now, let's be honest, some of the decor might show its age. The walls have seen better days, and the cherubic figures beneath the table glass have softened into charmingly indistinct shapes. But here's where it gets interesting: this very weariness is part of its allure. It's a beautiful reminder that exceptional food doesn't require a half-million-dollar renovation. Instead, it evokes the comforting presence of an imaginary Nonna from a Tuscan village, urging you to eat more because you look too thin! It’s a feeling that transcends trends and speaks directly to the heart.
Who am I to argue with Nonna? So, following her wise counsel, I opted for the alici e pomodoro (anchovy and tomato) bruschetta and a caprese salad, with the ultimate comfort dish, lasagne, promising a carb-induced bliss. And, of course, the menu offers a delightful journey through Italian classics. From the traditional margherita pizza to the more adventurous Mexicana pizza, there's something to pique every interest. The pasta selection is extensive, catering to both creamy and tomato-based preferences. While Nonna might raise an eyebrow at cream in a carbonara, it perfectly complements the restaurant's enduring nostalgic vibe.
And this is the part most people miss... While the caprese salad was a refreshing counterpoint to the richness of the lasagne, the tomatoes, while good, might not have been the absolute stars they could have been in such a simple dish. Yet, the overall effect was delightful.
For many years, La Capanna was a BYO establishment, but now it boasts a comprehensive drinks menu. The wine list features two Italian selections – a white from Tuscany and a Pinot Grigio from Venice – alongside a diverse range from regions like the Riverina, Adelaide Hills, Western Australia, and New Zealand's Marlborough Sounds. Notably, no local Canberra wines are featured. As a beer enthusiast, I found Peroni, with its roots in Northern Italy dating back to the mid-19th century, to be a perfect companion to the rich dishes, a choice I'm sure Nonna would approve of.
The bruschetta was a promising start – toasted Italian bread, perhaps a touch more bread than toast, but beautifully presented and bursting with classic Italian flavors. The lasagne, however, was the true hero. This was exactly what Nonna would have ordered! The layers of pasta, generously filled with a robust, meaty tomato sauce, were utterly satisfying. And that shaker of Parmesan cheese? It instantly transported me back to the early 90s, a time when my knowledge of Italian cheese was limited to this delightful staple.
To further enhance the nostalgic experience, the walls of La Capanna are adorned with historical news clippings about the restaurant. One article, written just 12 years after its opening, bore the title ‘No Pretensions, Just Good Food’. This perfectly echoes La Capanna’s current tagline on Instagram, demonstrating a beautiful continuity and a shared sense of nostalgia, both for the establishment and its patrons. It's a sentiment I find incredibly endearing.
La Capanna is located at 32 Giles Street, Kingston, and welcomes diners Tuesday through Saturday from 6 pm to 9:30 pm.
What do you think? Does the idea of a restaurant that embraces its history and offers unpretentious, comforting food appeal to you? Or do you prefer newer, trendier establishments? Let us know your thoughts in the comments below!
